Gemma at Waldorf Astoria

Some restaurants are defined by their view, others by their kitchen. Gemma, located twelve stories above Beverly Hills, makes a compelling case for both. The visit begins with the panorama, a sweeping city view that stretches from the Santa Monica Mountains to the Hollywood Hills, offering a backdrop that shifts from the soft light of late afternoon to a glittering urban landscape after sunset. Set within the Waldorf Astoria, the indoor-outdoor space is designed to maximize these sightlines, creating a sky-high retreat where the setting is as much a part of the meal as the food. The culinary approach is rooted in Pan-Asian flavors, with a clear influence from the traditions of Southern California and Southeast Asia. This translates to a selection well-suited for its environment, emphasizing shared plates, delicate dim sum, and pristine seafood. The kitchen has become known for dishes that balance bold and nuanced tastes, such as lobster wontons or wagyu beef wontons with black vinegar. A raw bar offers various sashimi and crudo preparations, while larger plates might include a whole branzino with Thai chili or a fragrant Thai curry with branzino and shrimp. The food is expressive and vibrant, reflecting its Pacific influences without being heavy-handed. This sense of transportive escape extends to the beverage program, which draws on a modern interpretation of tiki culture. The cocktail list features tropical-leaning creations, including shareable scorpion bowls, alongside a curated selection of sake and wine intended to pair with the distinct flavors of the cooking. The combination of a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere, a bill of fare built on exploration, and the ever-present city below creates a uniquely Los Angeles dining occasion. The restaurant can be enjoyed in different ways, whether for a few cocktails and small bites at sundown or for a more settled dinner as the city lights come on.