In Oakland, some homecomings are more inventive than a simple return. Take Bar Skula, a reinterpretation of the beloved Luka’s Taproom, which played a key role in the city’s dining evolution. This new chapter, located in a familiar space near Lake Merritt, isn't a revival but a self-described “remix” from the same celebrated team. It channels nearly two decades of culinary history into a fresh format, a testament to a crew regrouped to cook for the city once again. The kitchen finds its voice as a cevicheria and grill, drawing on flavors from across the Americas. The offerings chart a course from Alta California through Mexico and Guatemala to the coastal preparations of Peru, with nods to the Iberian peninsula. This translates to a focus on bright, raw preparations of seafood and local ingredients. The restaurant has become known for a Nayarit-style ceviche with albacore and mango, and for dobladas that honor the culinary traditions of Guatemala. While the outlook is new, a few classics from the team’s former life remain, including the fan-favorite fries, connecting the present venture to a loyal following. The setting itself is rooted in its location. Vibrant murals by a local artist imagine the underwater life of the nearby lake, complete with a mythical monster and a giant octopus. This playful aquatic theme underscores the culinary direction. The bar program has also shifted, moving from the broad beer selection of the past to a more focused list of wines and creative cocktails. A considered collection of Gin-Tonics and a variety of Carajillos, the Spanish coffee cocktail, signals a different kind of evening—one that is both a tribute to the past and a confident step in a new direction.
