Nearly 20 years ago, chef Jaime Pesaque opened Mayta on a mission to give classic Peruvian dishes the fine-dining treatment. The Lima restaurant ranked No. 45 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list this year. Diners come from all over for Pesaque’s 10-course tasting menu, which features ingredients like cushuro, or “caviar of the Andes.”
Now the chef is turning that experience on its head with Cholapink, a fast-casual spot where anticuchos run from $9 to $11 apiece. He and his unlikely partner, Daddy Yankee, opened it on Spring Street in New York City on October 28.
In Peru, anticuchos are often eaten streetside and traditionally made with beef heart. “As one of Peru's most iconic and democratic dishes, anticuchos felt central to that idea,” Pesaque says. “When it came time to build our menu, I couldn’t think of a more approachable and versatile foundation for capturing the sheer variety of flavors and ingredients that make up Peruvian cuisine.”
There are five skewers on the menu, including beef seasoned with smoky ají panca and topped with creamy huancaína and chimichurri. The pork belly is marinated in gochujang and rocoto, an ultra-spicy Peruvian pepper, and served with pineapple chutney to balance the heat. The vegan option pairs oyster mushrooms with a peanut sauce spiked with ají panca.
On the side, there’s sea bass ceviche in leche de tigre, corn and cheese with choclo and huancaína sauce, and chaufa, a popular Peruvian-Chinese fried rice. The fries come tossed in a chili rub, and the salad gets an ají amarillo dressing.