Kuma on Valencia

A sushi roll named for a neighboring Mexican restaurant says a great deal about Kuma on Valencia. The combination of hamachi, pineapple, seared amberjack, and yuzu tobiko is a tribute to its Mission surroundings, an acknowledgment that even a traditional craft is part of a larger community. This gesture represents the thoughtful sensibility found throughout the establishment, which opened in 2023 as a sibling to a beloved Nob Hill sushi bar. The kitchen here is grounded in nigiri of remarkable quality, sourcing seafood from Japan as well as from California, Scotland, and Mexico, but it distinguishes itself with a clear point of view on its specialty maki. The offerings display a creativity that sidesteps the tired clichés of overloaded, sauce-heavy rolls. Instead, the compositions are balanced and light, designed to make each component discernible. This extends to the small plates, where the kitchen has become known for panko-crusted “tuna wings,” made from the dorsal fins of bluefin and seasoned with shichimi spice, providing an unconventional and satisfying start to a meal. Another recurring favorite has been a preparation of local tofu, served with a bright, citrus-inflected soy sauce and the crunch of fried garlic. The focus on quality carries over to the beverage program. The restaurant’s partnership with True Sake, San Francisco’s pioneering all-sake shop, has resulted in a carefully selected list that complements the food. It’s a detail that underscores a serious commitment to the entirety of the dining proposition. In an airy, modern room that functions as a welcoming neighborhood spot, Kuma on Valencia practices a contemporary form of Japanese cooking that is both precise in its technique and connected to its specific place in the city.