If you want to be a true Bavarian, you’ll have to eat your first meal of the day by 11am. That’s what’s done in Munich. There’s nothing strange about that, except for the fact that a traditional morning meal includes boiledWeißwurst (white sausage), sweet mustard, brezn (bread) and, obviously, a large glass of Weißbier. And vegetarians? Well, they should resign themselves. Besides a few potato-based dishes and a few delicious soups, this is a very carnivorous society, where pork is the star, usually in the form of sausages, which are taken quite seriously and rated accordingly. And there’s no better place to partake in a serious sausage classification than Munich.
The classic version is the white, boiled, Münchner Weißwurst. Then there are the more spicy, grilled Nürnberger Rostbratwürste, or else theWollwurst, which are white and served grilled. If you’re still hungry for more, try it served in a salad, called the Wurstsalat. After all of this meat, try refreshing your palate with a hot Rumfordsuppe, a soup made from barley and vegetables, or white asparagus. And leave room for a Bayerische Kartoffel, the Bavarian potato served with crème fraîche and chives.
But don’t fret: cuisine in Munich can’t be limited to just an edible extention of Oktoberfest. This is a city with an enormous culinary repertoire, with fine restaurants, dishes from all over the world, inserted into a socio-cultural context that makes Monaco one of the cities with the highest qualities of life in the world.
To best understand the city, one should begin at the market -- theViktualienmarkt in particular. It’s right in the centre, near to Marienplatz as well as St. Peter’s cathedral. The market stalls are painted dark green and are in perfect order, displaying all kinds of goods in a cross between opulence and rigor: fruit, vegetables, cheeses, and, of course, wurst.
Here, you can also eat some of the city’s best street food atSchlemmermeyer, a butcher that offers excellent grilled sausages andLeberkäs, a very savoury meat terrine. To satisfy your sweet tooth, try the local pastry Die Schmalznudel. If the temperature outside is bone-chilling, head to the covered part of the market, the Schrannenhalle, which dates back to the 19th Century and today houses little shops and eateries. It’s also the location for musical events, parties and concerts.
Close by the market, you’ll find the traditional restaurant Bratwurstherzl, with sausages cooked over coals, served alongside cabbage. Pay a visit to the nearby Kräuterparadies Lindig, which sells medicinal herbs and carries a spiced aroma. Don’t miss the legendary gastro-boutique, Dallmayr, which is the most sophisticated food shop in the city. Establishd in 1700, it was originally a coffee wholesaler; you can still sip a hearty brew from the delicate porcelain cups from Nymphenburg, engaging in one of the local rituals of the well-heeled Bavarian bourgeoisie.
Tel. +49 (089) 295113
Tel. +49 (089) 265726
Schlemmermeyer at the Viktualienmarkt
Tel. +49 (089) 295575
Tel. +49 (089) 2135-0
Another alternative to the luxury of the finer eating and shopping establishments is Elisabethmarkt. With its casual spirit, the street is dotted with market stalls and shops selling goods at affordable prices, with plenty of alternative and organic foods that appeal to the student set. Here you’ll find sausages, fish and all kinds of meat – but there’s also a haven for soup lovers: Münchner Suppenküche, with seasonal ingredients and a variety of natural ingredients and recipes. There are four locations around the city, but the best is at the Viktualienmarkt. Which brings us back to where we began. Only this time, with our bellies nice and full.
Markt am Elisabethplatz - Schwabing
Am Viktualienmarkt - Altstadt/Lehel
Tel. +49 (089) 2609599