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Cooking the Classics: Quiche Lorraine

Cooking the Classics: Quiche Lorraine

Is the Quiche Lorraine one of the easiest recipes in the world? Let's take a closer look at the famous open-faced pie from France.

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There are many cookbooks that try to teach you failsafe recipes that are so easy to make that anyone, even a cook with two left feet on their hands, can pull off. Cereal is perhaps one example, but that's not really cooking, is it? More like mixing (don’t forget: cereal first, then milk). But how about Quiche Lorraine?

Quiche is something that anyone can make, and it has the added benefit of allowing you to use whatever happens to be at hand in the fridge or the larder. If you want to get fancy, you could roll your own dough, but how often do we actually want to get fancy, if we're being realistic?

At its most basic, quiche is dough. There are numerable variations, but the most famous is quiche Lorraine. This was the first quiche that Americans learned of, thanks to Julia Child, and so it is the one most likely to come to mind.

The Origins of Quiche Lorraine

This specialty comes from the Lorraine region of France, a part of the world that has some of my favorite culinary specialties. Alsace and Lorraine hug the border between France and Germany, so that Alsace and Lorraine are both French and German and are also their own unique place. While I should save the famous Alsatian tarte a flambee for separate article, the most ubiquitous dish from Lorraine is quiche. And the specialty quiche from Lorraine features gruyere cheese, onion, fatty bacon (French lardons) and nutmeg as its primary flavors.

The history of quiche, a dish we think of as quintessentially French, is actually a liminal one, in that the dish is of German origin. The word 'quiche' comes from the German word kuchen, meaning cake. Thus quiche is a savoury cake, and Lorraine is a rather new name for a region that, under Germanic rule, was called the Kingdom of Lothringen. There are 13th century recipes for egg and cream baked in a dough crust in Italy, so it is difficult to say exactly where such a simple and ubiquitous approach to baking first began. In the 14th century English recipe collection, The Forme of Cury, there is a recipe like this with the unappetising name “Crustardes of flesh.”

The oldest recipes for quiche Lorraine were simply an open-faced pie (that is, crust on the bottom and sides only), filled with a mixture of egg and cream and chopped bacon. The dough was simply bread dough, but in the 20th century this evolved into the more sophisticated puff pastry crust.

Quiche Lorraine: the Recipe

In my adventures in this Cooking the Classics column, I have rarely had an easier time than I did preparing quiche. My quiche, I am proud to say, actually looks just as I hoped it would. Even better, no limbs were lost in preparing it.  Okay, I will admit that I used store-bought dough. If you want to really get crazy, then making your own dough is not particularly difficult.

The recipe for quiche Lorraine requires just one the sautéing of the fatty bacon and onion, the whisking of the eggs and cream and cheeses (most recipes recommended gruyere plus another cheese, like parmesan or cubed Swiss), and then the pouring of the aforementioned onto the dough in a baking dish. Et voila!

Quiche is good hot or cold, so you can’t even get that part wrong. It is an ideal light meal, preferably accompanied by a salad of bitter greens with a light dressing up oil and vinegar. It will totally impress your date. I like such recipes because they are more guidelines from which you can riff all you like, throwing all sorts of crazy stuff into your egg and cream batter. Throw it in the oven to bake with almost inevitably edible results. Just be sure not to overcook it, so keep an eye out for the golden-brown crust forming on the top. Be brave, you can’t fail! 


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