Martin Elschner vs Portenier Roth: a nonchalant avant-garde
The names of the 20 emerging designers selected by Vogue Italia to pair up with the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 finalists have finally been announced. Each designer will reinterpret the work of their team-mate through a fashion creation inspired by the chef’s dish, in an unprecedented fusion of fine food and style.
Here is the interview with Switzerland region finalists: chef Martin Elschner and fashion designers Portenier Roth.
|What inspires the aesthetics of your creations?||What inspires the aesthetics of your creations?|
I got the inspiration for the aesthetics of this dish from nature, bearing that in mind I tried to create an overall harmonious impression. The name for the dish is made up of the elements water and earth. These represent the natural habitats of the products used.
Every collection starts with a drafting phase on a three dimensional body. The emphasis lies in the construction of a three-dimensional draft referring to the woman and her figure.
|How do colours and textures influence your creations?||How do colours and textures influence your creations?|
As they say, the first bite is with the eye, so it’s important for the colours on the plate to harmonise. The contrasting nature of the components is essential to the success composition.
We like to create colorus and pleced prints. In collabaration with the textile industry or with nice projekts like the Ethical Fashion Project (ITC) and their textiles from Burkina Faso. In our collections, hand-made textiles are combined with contrasting materials such as high quality silk chiffon, satin, leather and knitted material.
|How would you describe your creative style?||How would you describe your creative style?|
My creative style would best be described as a mix of avant-garde and classical cuisine, that I like to give a touch of Asian flair.
||Nonchalant. With each new dress, we examine how the materials’ movements best caress the female body. This may be one of the reasons why the creations from us convince to our protagonists and let them shine in a modern and timeless light. This nonchalance is accentuated by letting the models walk the catwalk in oversized men’s shoes. It’s only by doing this, do the models get that laissez-faire walk what we have in mind when we imagining our clothes.|
|Is there any influence of your country's traditions, culture or materials in your creative work?||Is there any influence of your country's traditions, culture or materials in your creative work?|
To tie in my adopted home country, Switzerland, I use the great local products that we have right here at our fingertips. I love to combine these with exclusive specialties from abroad, like caviar, foie gras or Balik salmon.
||We design on the body and craft & fabricate in own production facilities and in collaboration with regionally-based manufacturers. Direct human contact is at the centre of our work.|
|What food would you happily die eating?||What food would you happily die eating?|
I would happily die eating Vietnamese Pho-Bo noodle soup, or a simple, well-cooked pasta dish.
Redcurrant cake, whit a meringue, sweet and sour in an explosiv moment, to die for...
|The first top fashion designer that comes to mind?||The first top chef that comes to your mind?|
|If your cuisine was something to wear, what would it be?||If your creations were a dish, what would it be?|
A comfortable suit, something business-casual. Like my dishes, it should be something chic, but not too intrusive.
||A colorful tasty mezze.|
|What ingredient would you never eat, and why?||What item of fashion would you never wear, and why?|
I never want to limit my culinary experience and would try everything, even if it’s not exactly to my taste.
||False fingernails, it give a tacky touch.|
|What’s the first thing you’ll do upon arriving in Milan next June?||What’s the first thing you’ll do upon arriving in Milan next June?|
I love great food, so I would go to Peck first, just to see what they have to offer.
||Drinking a very teastful italian capuccino.|
|What do you expect from this challenge?||What do you expect from this challenge?|
|I hope to meet lots of people and generally expand my horizon.||Experience an exciting time, making interesting acquaintances in a wonderful atmosphere.|
Portenier Roth's interview was conducted by Vogue.it