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Forget Florence for tourists with an umbrella and selfie stop offs in front of the monuments.
In the Florentine undergrowth, far from travel guides, social and cultural initiatives "alternative" neighborhoods are growing and developing alongside a geography of taste for all appetites - and all pockets.
Here are 10 of the best restaurants in Florence, for when you want to eat well.
Born in 2016, Essenziale offers seasonal cuisine, with a daily menu, accompanied by a beautiful wine list. Simone Cipriani's motto? "Essential is creative simplicity". Like that of the tagliatella with rabbit and chamomile ragout or the umbrina with Jerusalem artichokes and umeboshi or beef with raspberry, strawberries, rhubarb and wasabi.
Piazza di Cestello, 3R
Chef Riccardo Serni and his partner Luca Leonardi propose a 3.0 concept of trattoria, with a focus on the sea and its produce, which we recommend to try with the 39 euro tasting menu. From anchovies to chickpea and prawn puree (Fulvio Pierangelini's tribute), from spaghetti with clams to Livorno-style cod, the Tuscan - seafood tradition - is served.
Lungarno del Tempio, 52
The young Gabriele Andreoni arrived in Gurdulù in February 2017, when the restaurant-cocktail bar in the Santo Spirito district was already a very popular venue. The meeting of two such strong identities worked beautifully and Gurdulù remains, now more than ever, one of the favorite places of Florentine gourmands. The best dish to try? Rigatoni with "puppa" and lime.
Via delle Caldaie, 12/R
La Ménagère opened in 1896 as the city's first household goods store. Over a century later, it has become a concept restaurant where attention to design and the kitchen go hand in hand: 1500 square meters in which flowers and home accessories coexist with industrial materials and recycled objects. On the one hand, the café-bistro, on the other the cocktail bar with tapas, and finally the restaurant, where we recommend relying on one of the three tasting menus: one vegetarian, one dedicated to fish and one to meat. Do not miss the desserts, always refined and appetizing.
Via de’ Ginori, 8
Borgo San Jacopo
We have already talked about Borgo San Jacopo, the one-star Michelin restaurant of the Lungarno Collection led by the eclectic Peter Brunel. Two good reasons to go there? The romantic view of the Ponte Vecchio and the tasting menu "Potato and vegetables", where the vegetal element dominates from the appetizer to the dessert.
Borgo San Jacopo
Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R
Massimo Bottura opened Gucci Osteria at the beginning of 2018 and since then the executive chef, Mexican Karime Lopez, has led the way. This place offers competitive prices for the location and dishes, such as the Chianina hotdog or the bonito tostada, which are already cult.
Piazza della Signoria 10
Four Seasons Hotel
Vito Mollica is the executive chef of the Four Seasons in Milan and Florence. Here he won a Michelin star at the Palagio and here he proposes a Sunday brunch that has become the epitome of luxury: 100 euros per person and a buffet that you will dream about in the years to come.
Four Seasons Hotel
Borgo Pinti, 99
WinterGarden by Caino
A Michelin star within the St. Regis. The executive chef Getian Shehi in collaboration with Valeria Piccini, two stars at the Cain, has created a menu that "enhances and brings to the fore the great cuisine of the territory" through "epicurean creations". The unmissable dishes: Organic egg cooked at a low temperature on Jerusalem artichoke cream, toasted hazelnuts and truffle, Fusilli al ferretto with lamb ragout, apples and coffee.
Winter Garden by Caino Piazza
You say Tuscan tradition and think of Da Burde. The menu starts with a platter of sliced meats and then continues with soups and pasta, and finally throwing oneself in to the roasted and boiled meats, including offal (and lampredotto). The wine list has few equals in the city: almost all Tuscan wines, with the exception of champagne.
Via Pistoiese, 154
Il Cibrèo was born in 1979 from an idea by Fabio Picchi and is now a place with many souls: restaurant, trattoria, cafe and even restaurant of contaminated Chinese cuisine (the Ciblèo). Traditional and seasonal dishes, such as chicken and ricotta meatballs or tripe salad, soups and dips, of high simplicity to art and hospitality impressed as a rule.
Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 5R
Michele Leo has created a Florentine outpost of Neapolitan pizza: painstaking research of the product, high hydration dough, leavening up to 48 hours. Try the Mastunicola with lard, pecorino and pancetta, and the Pesto with Lemon with ricotta, lemon pesto and parsley, anchovies and bottarga. Possibility to order gluten-free or vegan pizzas.
Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9
Gourmet pizza needs little introduction. The pizzeria from brothers Aloe, Matteo and Salvatore, left Bologna and from there conquered London, Milan, Turin, Rome and Florence with two ouposts, one in the centre and the other one in San Frediano, judged the coolest area by Lonely Planet.
Piazza de’ Nerli 1/ via dei Benci 7